Monday, 16 July 2007

I suddenly feel inclined to be a cultural tourist in my own country; to go on a journey of discovery through the ages.

I begin by paying a visit to my favourite megalithic remains, Mnajdra and Hagar Qim temples in the limits of Qrendi. As I observe the standing stones from a short distance, I let myself be transported by the energy that emanates from this powerful place that knows the story of mankind before history was written.

Mnajdra is particular because it is perfectly aligned East, a calendar accurately marking the solstices and equinoxes to this very day, despite being nearly 5,500 years old! Not even the reknowned Stone Henge in England can boast such characteristics, yet Mnajdra is barely known to the world. Nonetheless we cannot claim ancestory to the builders of this magnificent heritage.

The Temple period in Malta began around 3800BC, and it is quite remarkable that the people who built these temples were so intelligent, skilled and in touch with nature. But little else can be assumed about them, while nothing is known. They mysteriously disappeared in 2500BC, leaving few clues. It was only at around 750BC, during the Bronze Age when the Phonecians brought the alphabet, that history began to be recorded.

The Neolithic Age began earlier, in 5200BC, with the oldest period being the Ghar Dalam phase followed by the Grey Skorba phase then the Red Skorba phase until 4100BC. The Temple period that followed is distinguished as the Zebbug phase, the Mgarr phase, the Ggantija phase, the Saflieni phase and the Tarxien phase. These phases are identified according to they type of pottery that was found – its compositon, how it was fired and its decorations – and the phases were named after the place where most of that type of pottery was found.

Wednesday, 18 July 2007

There are more than twenty archeological sites in Malta and Gozo, an extremely high concentration considering the area in question, while only God knows what remains undiscovered. Typical, I guess, that the Hal Saflieni Hypogeum, for example, was not spoken of until three years after its discovery – by which time houses had been built on this extremely important site. The average lay-person, uneducated about the value of such heritage, may hide or destroy such findings to safe-guard his own interest.

I booked online a week in advance to visit the Hypogeum, a burial place located near the Tarxien temples, a major temple site. With over 7,000 bodies buried within its chambers in its time, considering the small population of the islands in those days it is thought to be the entire area's burial place for the whole of the Temple period from Zebbug through to Tarxien phase.

Declared a World Heritage site by UNESCO, much has been done to protect this site. Three of the houses have been knocked down, the site glassed over, walkways built to protect it from erosion, controlled lighting to protect the paintings and controlled numbers of visitors to control carbon dioxide emissions. Several similar plans are outlined for other sites. Although such measures mean that the archeological sites somewhat lose some of their mysticism, if not undertaken we may no longer be able to appreciate them in the near future.

Friday, 20 July 2007

Walking through the narrow streets of the silent city, Mdina, the first capital of Malta, it is not too hard to imagine what it might have been like in its days of glory, although more than likely it is far removed from what it may have really looked like in its early days.

Mdina's location indicates that it may have started off as a bronze-age (1,500-700BC) settlement, because of the good defence from high altitude. Bronze people had fear as opposed to stone-age people. The locations chosen, usually at the top of hills and difficult to access areas, indicate that it was no longer a peaceful time. The first phase of the bronze-age is called Tarxien Cemetry, followed by Borg in-Nadur after the fortified village, while the Bahrija phase came after.

The sea-faring Phoenicians arrived around 750BC, bringing with them a new era of commerce and information. As settlements after settlements were built and rebuilt over existing cities, it is believed that a full-fledged Phoenician settlement probably lies beneath Rabat just outside Mdina – burial remains have been found although no buildings.

Meanwhile, Mdina used to be much bigger than it is today. During the time of the Phoenecians, and then the Romans who followed at around 218BC, St Paul's church stood just outside Mdina's gates, although it was then called Melita, meaning honey.

It was the Byzantines (the Catholic Romans) who had a policy of resizing by retrenching, in order to require less man-power to manage the city. By the time the Arabs arrived in 870AD the city looked more or less the same as it does today. They also gave the names Medina and Rabat.

The cities remained unchanged during the Arab occupation, but the Arabs had a strong influence on the natural landscape of the island. They are probably responsible for the destruction of the olive trees planted by the Romans, using the wood for building ships, and planting cotton instead. The lack of trees began a process of erosion – for example the sea near Qawra reached Burmarrad, but moving silt created a land-fill at sea level. Arabs are also the ones who introduced citrus trees to these islands.

In the beginning of the twelfth century, the Normans conquered Malta from the Arabs. Until the Knights came in 1530, the history of this period is very unclear, partly because of the constant change of hands through marriage, murder and such familial intricacies, and partly because it is largely undocumented since the rest of Europe was also going through the dark ages.

For about 3,000 years, from bronze-age till the arrival of the Knights, the settlements around present-day Mdina were of great importance on the islands. Today the city is at retirement age... a quiet place to enjoy chocolate cake, coffee and a view of half the island!

Monday, 23 July 2007

I feel I could safely say that there is no inhabited place in Malta as glorious as Birgu. It used to be 'Il borgo davanti al castello' – a small village built in front of the castle, Fort St Angelo, which could provide protection from attack. Today it is a magnificent fortified city, remarkably beautiful as seen from the Grand Harbour and quaint to walk around with its immaculate, narrow streets decorated with potted plants.

Birgu's character seems more profound by night, as we move from one grand building to the next, reading plaques indicating their historical importance. Every exquisite piece of architecture with wrought-iron windows has a story of its own... a story that is part of one of the most remarkable historical events of the Maltese islands – the Great Siege of 1565.

The Knights were the first to choose an alternative governing location to Mdina – they wanted a place by the sea where they could watch over their fleets. The Grand Harbour, the largest natural harbour in the Mediterranean, was perfect.

The cities Birgu and Isla became the fortified settlements to manage and protect the islands, and they protected each other back to back, with Fort St Elmo protecting the other side. The third of 'the Three Cities', Bormla, was fortified only after the siege.

This strategic situation and some wise manoevers held off the Turks for a while but it was a stroke of luck when the cavalry approached from Mdina that forced the Turks to retreat when Birgu and Isla were about to fall. The war continued until finally a large relief force arrived from Sicily in September, which secured victory for the Knights and the Maltesej. Since the city of Birgu remained unconquered, it is reknowned as Citta' Vittoriosa.

Our tour ends at the Isla waterfront where we savor a delicious pizza and a cold kinnie, surprisingly for a fraction of the price one would expect to pay in the North of the island. Today this view we enjoy is vastly different to what the Knights would have seen during the siege. Valletta now crowns Mount Sciberras, glimmering in a mystical orange hue highlighting its magnificence.

Thursday, 26 July 2007

When the Turks sailed away, the Knights built Valletta – the city of La Vallette – expecting further attack in the future. The Order of the Knights of St John lost significance and revenue due to political events taking place in Europe towards the end of the 18th century. This made it easy for Napoleon to take over the Maltese islands when he arrived with his fleet in 1798.

During the last two hundred years of occupancy by the Knights, all management had moved from Birgu to Valletta, and it is still the capital city today. Unlike most cities, until few years ago Valletta was mainly a business centre, but it is successfully transforming into a cultural venue with art-exhibitions, theatre and wine-bars the order of the day.

St John's Co-Cathedral is perhaps the most special treasure within the city's walls. It is hard to describe the beauty of this place of worship so lavishly decorated by the Knights. Since Napoleon's troops looted churches and wealth belonging to the Order in order to finance their expedition in Egypt (including the sword that the King of Spain had given to the Grandmaster Jean de La Vallette), it is popularly believed that a silver gate within the cathedral had been painted black to fool his troops, but there is no foundation for this tale.

Over the next two years the British assisted in helping the Maltese rid of Napoleon. Later, the Maltese requested and received the protection of the British. The British rule is a time that is still within the memory of our elders... many of which are bitter-sweet, including the period of World War II, another remarkable time in the island's history.

Tuesday, 31 July 2007

Malta carries its history of civilization since 7,000 years. After stone-age, it has been occupied and reoccupied repeatedly – by the Phoenicians, the Romans, the Byzantines, the Arabs, the Normans, the Knights of the Order of St John, Napoleon and the British – and through the ages has evolved its own language and culture from all these influences.

With a current population of 400,000, it has succeeded in establishing a Democratic Republic in 1974. Recently the borders with Europe have been opened and a new era begins, to continue colouring the story of Malta.

Meanwhile my bout as a tourist in my own country is over. I realise there is so much we take for granted! If all of us had the opportunity to look at Malta through eyes less familiar, if we could appreciate our cultural and historical heritage, we would surely be inclined to protect it and flaunt it as though the most dignified and patriotic nation in the world!

With special thanks to Mr Peter Vella, Tourist Guide

For more information visit:
www.heritagemalta.org
www.visitmalta.com
http://web.infinito.it/utenti/m/malta_mega_temples/